Johnny Blanchard @jonn_blanchard@retrochat.online

Erica was given these amazing books of Shakespeare’s plays, each volume contains one ‘type’ of play, Comedies, Tragedies and histories. No dates inside except for this (I presume) owners handwritten note from 1936

I got each of these by chance, because they were part of other auctions.

I’ll rewind with Bomberman ‘94 on the GP2X Wiz

Secondly, the burning smell seems to have come from my OSSC - which no longer works with VGA inputs - so I’ll have to work that out

Whilst doing so I realised two things, the reason the cable for the MB-6890 wasn’t working was because I’d assumed it’s manual used the standard DIN pin numbering - we know what ASSume does

Finally managed to build a Super Cassette Vision SCART cable - turns out there were some wrong schematics out there, I’ll write it up and add a correct schematic to https://www.re-enthused.com

It with the RT, if you decide you want to go back then it’s just a case of putting the CoreGrafx and controller back in their cases.

Similar to the RP Engine build my personal brief on this was to create an easy to build unit that didn’t use any custom PCBs. I also didn’t want to modify the retro equipment in a way that couldn’t be undone. Obviously, it would be easy to make this whole thing way smaller if you tore the boards apart.

Once finished the 3D printed stuff and instructions will be freely available on re-enthused.com.

The current project is taking longer than I expected, but it’s almost done. This is the PC Engine RT - a recreated PC Engine LT. In the final version the controller will be integrated into the main body. It runs off USB-C and uses a CoreGrafx and controller. It’s designed so it can be entirely undone if you want to put your console and controller back together

When the whole component takes 12 hours to print but you need to do a bunch of fit tests then you got to get slicing

Well there are definitely signals there …

This is, effectively, going to be my power distribution board, it will take the ~5v from the USB-C port and up it to 9v for the system

Ooh, even didier USB-C panel mounts

Here’s the inside of the MB-6890, I had to open it to check the orientation of the video port

Tried to build a SCART cable for the Hitachi MB-6890, abject failure - not even a flicker of a signal. There are multiple possible reasons for this a) I didn’t build the cable correctly b) although it looks like SCART compatible, the signals might not be right c) I might need to change something on one of the DIP switches to use RGB

My phone used to be 90% pictures of retro consoles and computers - now it’s about 50% my dog, 40% retro

Jess has claimed the small sofa as her own

Slightly less exciting arrival, but will hopefully help smarten up some of my older machines

It works, needed a bit of contact cleaner but even the controller functions well - the whole thing is in need of a good clean though